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Blemish: A flaw (scratch
or abrasion) on the surface of a diamond.
Brilliance: White light
reflected up through the surface of a diamond. Brilliance
is maximized by cutting a diamond to the correct proportions.
Brilliant Cut: A brilliant
cut is any cut that utilizes 58 facets. It can be round,
oval, radiant, pear or heart shaped.
Carat: A unit of weight
for a diamond, equivalent to 200 milligrams, or one fifth
of a gram.
Center Stone: The central,
dominant stone in a piece of jewelry set with multiple
stones. Also described as the solitaire.
Clarity: A grade given
to a diamond to describe how many inclusions the diamond
has. The clarity scale ranges from Flawless (FL), meaning
a diamond has no internal or external flaws, to Severely
Included (I3), meaning a diamond has many flaws clearly
visible to the unaided eye.
Cloud: A cluster of small
inclusions inside a diamond.
Color: A grade given to
a diamond to describe the color tones of the stone. The
color scale ranges from D, meaning completely colorless,
to Z, which has a distinct yellow cast. As the scale moves
from D to Z, it indicates increasing levels of yellow
and brown tone.
Comfort Fit: The rounded
finish on a ring's interior, designed to provide additional
comfort for long-wear.
Culet: The foundation facet
of the diamond. The culets of older, European cut diamonds
can be seen through the table of the diamond and appear
as round, glassy discs. The preferred culet is visible
only as a tiny focal point where the facets of the pavilion
converge.
Cut: Commonly used to refer
to both the shape of a stone (round, pear, oval, etc.)
and the make (the exact geometric proportions to which
a diamond is cut). The make of a stone is the most important
factor in determining how much sparkle a diamond produces.
Cut, Ideal: Round diamonds
that are perfectly proportioned (having depth percentages
and table percentages that maximize fire and brilliance)
and have high grades on polish and symmetry. These stones
have had the finest craftsmanship to maximize the beauty
of the diamond.
Cut, Very Good: Diamonds
cut to fit very strict requirements for depth percentage
and table percentage. These outstanding proportions maximize
fire and brilliance in the diamond.
Cut, Good: Diamonds cut
with acceptable, but not perfect, cut proportions. They
generally have very good brilliance and fire and make
excellent jewelry.
Cut, Fair: Diamonds cut
to maximize the weight of the stone, generally at the
expense of fire and brilliance. While less expensive than
diamonds shown as having Good and Very Good cuts, they
do not have the sparkle people expect from a diamond.
Cut, Poor: Poorly cut diamonds
that look lifeless to the eye. These diamonds are not
recommended for fine jewelry.
Depth: The height of a
diamond (measured from the culet to the table).
Depth Percentage (%): The
height of a diamond (measured from the culet to the table)
divided by the width of the diamond. The depth percentage
is critical to creating brilliance and fire in a diamond;
a depth percentage that is too low or too high will cause
a diamond to lack sparkle.
Eye-clean: A diamond that
has no inclusions visible to the unaided eye.
Facet: The flat polished
surfaces on a diamond. A round brilliant diamond has 58
facets.
Fire: Colored light reflected
from within a diamond. Fire is maximized by cutting a
diamond to the correct proportions.
Fluorescence: A glow, usually
of a bluish color, which emanates from certain diamonds
when exposed to ultraviolet light. Strong fluorescence
should be avoided, but faint fluorescence usually does
not affect the appearance of a diamond.
Girdle: The narrow band
around the width of a diamond. The setting usually holds
the diamond around the girdle.
Head: Attached to the ring
shank, the head of the ring holds the center stone or
solitaire in place.
Head Shape: The head shape
of any ring is determined by the shape of the gemstone
that it is intended to hold. For example, the head that
holds an ideal-cut diamond is round, where a head intended
to hold a princess-cut diamond is square.
Head Size Range: Describes
the different carat weights of diamonds that may be mounted
into one particular head.
Inclusion: All but the
most rare diamonds contain inclusions, which are created
during the diamonds formation deep in the earth. Inclusions
are trace minerals, fractures, and other imperfections
in the stone that contribute to its unique fingerprint.
Make: The proportions to
which a diamond has been cut. A good make will have proportions
that maximize the brilliance and fire of a diamond. A
poor make will lead to a diamond that has little sparkle
due to the inability of the cut to properly reflect light.
Metal Type: Fine jewelry
is generally designed in the precious metals gold, platinum
and silver.
Pavilion: The bottom portion
of a diamond, from just below the girdle to the bottom.
Point: A weight measure
equal to one one-hundredth of a carat. (A 0.50 carat diamond
is said to be 50 points.)
Polish: A grade given to
the external finish of a stone. The polish scale ranges
from poor to excellent.
Ring Setting: Collective
term for the shank and the head of the ring before the
center stone has been set.
Ring Size: A measurement,
generally somewhere between 4 and 13, that is determined
by the diameter of the finger which will wear the ring,
that permits a ring to be easily slipped over the knuckle.
To determine your ring size, see our ring guide.
Shank: The part of the
ring that encircles the finger. Strictly speaking, the
shank of the ring does not include the head.
Side Stone: A stone set
alongside or encircling a center stone.
Sparkle: The combination
of fire and brilliance; the amount of light that reflects
out of a diamond.
Symmetry: A grade given
to the overall uniformity of a stone's cut. The scale
for symmetry ranges from poor to excellent. Poor symmetry
will hurt the sparkle of a diamond. Diamonds with symmetry
grades of good to excellent are recommended.
Table: The largest facet
on a diamond, located on the top of the diamond facing
out from the setting.
Table Percentage (%): The
width of the table divided by the total diameter of the
diamond. The table percentage is critical to creating
sparkle in a diamond; a table percentage that is too low
or too high will cause a diamond to lack sparkle.
Thickness: The measurement,
in millimeters, that indicates the width of a band or
shank.
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